City TRIP

Essaouira

Essaouira is so very different from Marrakech. Here, life seems to follow the rhythm of the sea and appears far more leisurely, decelerated and unagitated.

In contrast to its "red" sister inland, Morocco's coastal city shines in visual silence. Houses painted in restrained white with simple accents in the colours of the sky and the sea, the sun and the sand. Light blue on doors and sills. Atlantic blue on shutters and bricks. Sunny yellow around edgings and frames. And sandy hues on walls and roofs.

The strong winds carry incessantly fine sand that gnaws tirelessly at the whiteness of the city. Sand and salt in every crevice, every nook and cranny. But no one is bothered. There is no rush to fix, repair or paint over everything. Everything and everyone here gives the impression that this is exactly how it should be. And so the constant crumbling does not harm the Mediterranean flair of Essaouira.

Almost everywhere you will find small ornaments that bear witness to the proximity to the sea and the local fishing industry. No wonder, since the city on Morocco's west coast is determined by the Atlantic Ocean and its tides. At the harbour, one fishing boat follows the next and the day's fresh catch is immediately sold or grilled. Fish, fish and more fish. Fish as far as the eye can see. And where there is fish, seagulls are not far away. Countless numbers of them glide with loud cries above the hustle and bustle of the harbour or lie in wait, greedily eyeing the falling remains. Fish and seagulls and cats. Cats, cats and more cats. As scrawny images of themselves, they roam the streets, sleeping and begging there and meowing loudly for a mild offering in front of restaurants and hotels.

But Essaouira is much more than just a gathering place for fish, seagulls and cats. The world meets in Essaouira. Locals and foreign traders offer their goods for sale along the city walls and on the large and small trade streets. And here, too, there is hardly a trace of fuss. Without the wild beckoning or offering, you stroll leisurely past shops, stalls and booths packed with baked goods, fruits and vegetables, baskets, pottery, silver jewellery, bronze figures, wooden masks and masses of carpets. A constant feeling of drifting allows body and soul to relax noticeably and adapt to the rhythm of Essaouira.

So, in the end, the only drifters in this tranquil city are probably the roaring waves, whistling winds and screaming seagulls.

Morocco, May 2023. | All words and photos by The Sturgheons.