City TRIP

Marrakech

For us, Marrakech consists of three predominant elements: Colours, scents and sounds. All three equally beguile the senses and none can be without the other in this place.

The red colours of the walls are probably the most characteristic feature of the city, although the opulence of other, innumerable colours immediately imposes itself. Carpets of various types and patterns in rich green, saffron yellow, creamy white, turquoise blue and pink hang next to brightly polished silverware, cinnamon-coloured cedar furniture and metal pendants with stained glass.
In the gardens, palaces and riads of Marrakech, intensely luminous wall and floor tiles draw the eye. Rich emerald green, sunny warm orange yellow, deep black and pure white adorn ceilings, walls, pathways and fountains here, forming a comforting order of geometric stars.
One colour in particular reflects the splendour of Marrakech: Majorelle Blue, discovered by painter Jaques Majorelle and named after him. A uniquely strong shade of blue similar to cobalt blue, it can be admired not only in the Jardin Majorelle designed by the artist himself. Here it stands out among the pale green of the cacti, palms and succulents, while on all kinds of cloth in the souks it has to hold its own among many other vibrant colours.
The colour of the city is also found – literally – on the plate. Thus, it is the tagine baked from clay, which designate both vessel and dish, that gradually replace the eye and allow the nose and palate to take precedence.

The most wonderful scents of Marrakech are probably to be found under the lid of a tagine. Fine couscous and tender vegetables, accompanied by a confit of red onions and fruity sultanas. The food in Marrakech is defined by a tolerable sweetness that is not only pleasing to the palate but also to the nose. Add to this the intense herbal note of fresh peppermint tea, which is only trumped by an even more deliciously scented basboussa (Moroccan coconut cake).
But it's not only the scents on the table and plate that shape the senses. Also those of the city itself. While floral freshness or tart herbal notes fill the air in the gardens of Marrakech, pungent turpentine and petrol smells fog the entire head in the city centre. In between, intense notes of leather, sweets and soaps crowd the air. Here and there, a hint of spices passes by. And at some point, the wonderful scent of freshly baked bread and delicious tagine enters the nose once again...

But all the colours and scents would be nothing without the unmistakable sounds of Marrakech. In the countless Chariaas, Farouks and Dars of the Medina, there is a constant hustle and bustle, as if a dense carpet of sound were echoing through closely arranged clay pots.
Handed cooing and chirping of skinny pigeons and sparrows that seem to alternate. Loud male voices busily negotiating, vying for attention or animatedly discussing. Even louder raving of small children and their mothers who try to rebuke them. And in between, the rhythm of constant hammering, sawing and knocking, accompanied by the metallic rattle of several motorbikes. At all times – it seems – there is a never-ending hustle and bustle in Marrakech.
Only the call to prayer of the muezzins – united in a trance-like chant – always resounds above the roofs of the city and penetrates the hustle and bustle below in the narrow streets of the medina.

Now, as evening arrives and Marrakech is bathed in the colours of the setting sun, we find a rare moment of peace on the roof terrace of our riad. A light breeze makes the sound of gentle water lapping, bringing with it a hint of the scent of roses and gently blending the bright colours of the sky above the all and sundry intoxicating "Red City".

Morocco, May 2023. | All words and photos by The Sturgheons.