round TRIP
Utah
We stand rooted to the spot in the lobby of the Utah Office of Tourism in Salt Lake City. Astonished and a little overpowered, we look at an oversized but beautifully framed map on the wall. All the state's national parks, national monuments and state parks are beautifully illustrated and listed. After studying it for at least 10 minutes, a deep sigh escapes us and the sad realisation that our planned 4 days will never be enough for all these worthwhile natural wonders.
But: Cheer up. After all, we are on holiday. And that means: 'There is no reason for sadness'! So we replan right away, see what's on our route and for which must-see we can take a diversion, juggle our schedule a little here and there and set ourselves previously unplanned new highlights. Utah, here we come!
About a 1-hour drive from Salt Lake City is Antelope Island State Park – one of our new must-sees. A navigable causeway leads us to the largest of all islands in the Great Salt Lake. Once there, a narrow two-lane road then runs almost once around the entire island, branching off at some points and becoming an extensive network of trails for hikers, mountain bikers and campers. Antelope Island is considered a refuge for one of the oldest and largest bison herds in the USA and was once a habitat for antelope, to which the island owes its name. Several information boards also explain the unique flora and fauna on the island. They bear witness not only to the large and visible wonders, but also the small and hidden ones, which you only need to bring one thing with you to experience and discover: Time.
In the late afternoon we make the long journey to the Bonneville Salt Flats. When we finally arrive, the sun is already low, so that its last rays dip the glistening white into a delicate baby blue for only a short time. We cast elongated shadows faster and faster and quickly notice that it is now getting colder by the minute. Shortly afterwards, the cold evening sun is swallowed up by thick clouds, which only allow scattered orange and pink to pass through with great resistance. And then, nothing but deep night blue.
Our next stop – according to the plan – is Cannonville, a small town on the edge of Bryce Canyon. But fortunately, a glance at the map revealed another highlight that had not been considered on our route so far: The Red Canyon.
So we turn left from the so far green-lined highway. Suddenly, out of the thicket of the Dixie National Forest, a rust-red, spherical rocky outcrop emerges, which after a few metres turns out to be part of an imposing layered rock face. More spherical, knobbly formations on layered, undulating slabs follow, creating a canyon unlike any other. The road now winds serpentine through the red in red, broken only by shaggy bushes and deep green conifers. We can not only feel the dryness and heat, but also see it. Smokey the Bear – emblem of the canyon – shows the highest warning level for forest fire danger on several signs. So we take care of ourselves and nature and – apart from a souvenir picture with Smokey – only take what we have brought with us.
From Canonville it takes only about 30 minutes to Bryce Canyon. And since we have informed ourselves in advance when the best time of day is for a visit, there is no reason for us to hurry the next morning. After a hearty breakfast and the first warming rays of sun on our skin, we set off. As we were advised at the Tourist Centre, we drive in order through the so-called amphitheatre, starting at the very end: From Paria View over to Bryce Point, on to Inspiration Point, followed by Sunset Point and Sunrise Point. In the early afternoon, the sun is favourable and paints the countless columns, arches, peaks and slopes at each viewpoint in the most beautiful colours. Beige lies on red, cream on ochre, brown on yellow. The long shadows of the canyon herald the end of the day and we make our way back with the evening sun behind us.
The next morning we get up early compared to the day before. We have a 90-minute drive ahead of us in the direction of the southwest, and to avoid the blazing midday heat, we leave early. So we reach our destination before high noon: Zion National Park. Along with Bryce Canyon National Park, Arches National Park, Canyonlands National Park and Capitol Reef National Park, Zion National Park is one of Utah's five largest national parks – called "The Mighty 5". And as the name suggests, there is not only a lot to see, but also a lot to discover. Too much for a comparatively short day. So we park our car, choose a suitable hiking route on site, hop on the shuttle bus that takes us to the starting point and take a deep breath when we get off. The first steps into the shady greenery are a relief. Surrounded by deep red rock walls that protect us from the greatest heat of the day, a small idyll opens up before us. Almost every step is accompanied by squirrels jumping around and the Virgin River lapping. Fresh water trickles from the steep rock faces and wets some wondrous filigree flowers. At the Narrows the trail ends (for us) – unfortunately there is no further to go. Therefore, thirsty and inspired at the same time, we turn back and leave the graceful rocks of Zion behind us.
The last days in Utah are coming to an end. But not without one last change of plans... Shortly before the border to Arizona, a dusty road leads sharply off Highway 89. More bad than good, we drive along the road with our little off-road vehicle. The road is lined with potholes and getting narrower and narrower. Uncertainty spreads as to whether this is really the right way. But the uncertainty ends when we reach the car park in front of us. From now on it's all about: Put on your walking shoes and walk. It is not even 9 a.m. and the sun is already blazing. In front of us is a wide, dry riverbed that serves as both a signpost and a path. Every step is taken carefully and seems like an adventure that never ends. For the riverbed is dry, fine sandy and full of large and small stones. So: look down. But there are also the temptations along the way: tender shrubs, grasses, bushes and flowers in the morning light and also all kinds of animals that want to be photographed (at least from our side). So also: look to the sides.
After a 1-hour walk, which increased our leg circumference by what felt like 2 centimetres of muscle mass, our destination finally came into view: Buckskin Gulch. A canyon that not only impresses us with its depth and the twisted, bulbous rock walls, but also impressively proves that the journey is always the destination. Utah, see you again!
USA, May 2022. | All words and photos by The Sturgheons.
